Dominique Lafon needs no introduction. Hs is the Benchmark wine producer in Meursault. The only issue is getting his wines and being able to afford them as greatness does not come cheap. But Dominique has another project in the Maconnaise Region of Burgundy where he crafts wines with the same determination and talent that he does at his Meursault Domaine…..and the wines cost less than the tax on a bottle of his Meursault! I am happy to offer a selection of these wines from this venerable winemaker.
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IF YOU LOVE WHITE BURGUNDY THESE ARE MUST BUY WINES
Top Meursault producer, Dominique Lafon of Domaine des Comtes Lafon has ventured out from the ethereal heights of his family domaine in the Cote d’Or to the more humble Burgundian wine region of Macon. In late August of 1999, his new family company — Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon, which was created for new acquisitions — purchased Domaine Janine Emanuel, spending just over $1.1 million for the 19 acres under vine. “I have known the Macon region for a very long time, and I believe there is a great potential here that needs to be exploited. In the Cote d’Or, there is very little left to develop,” said Lafon, winemaker and co-owner of Domaine des Comtes Lafon. In May 2003 a further domaine of 6 hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay was bought. Together the Mâcon domaine amounted to 14 hectares producing seven wines in all, four of them from single-vineyard sites. The most recent addition, from 2009, is a contract to farm the vineyards of the Château de Viré, with the appellation Viré-Clessé. The wine featured here.
The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon . The vineyards were immediately converted to organic and now to biodynamic farming. The wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres (ovals) and partly in demi-muids – barrels of 600 litres, depending on the cuvée.
*2017 Macon Milly Lamartine
$22.99btl/$299.88 per case
(Jim Sirna 93)
A pretty nose of linestone and Granny Smith apple floats from the glass. Crisp acidity, precise balance and mineral driven leads to a palate that is tensile and vibrant. The steely finish is clean and fresh with bright citrus notes. Another Top Notch Chardonnay.
*2017 Macon Clos de la Crochette
Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon
$29.99btl/$359.88 per case
(Jim Sirna 94)
Only Dominique Lafon could craft a wine that resembles a combination of Puligny Montrachet and Chablis from the humble origins of the Macon. Beautiful golden/straw color. The aromatics are a combination of wet stones, ocean scents, green apple, lemongrass and pear. There is fine tension on the palate that is racy, intense and refined wrapped around a core of vibrant acidity. The finish is long and complex leading to a well balanced finale
*2017 Macon Busier Le Monsard
$31.25btl/$375.00 per case
(Jim Sirna 94)
A wonderful fresh nose of ocean scents, wet stones and green apples. In the mouth the bright acidity lends vibrancy that mingles with the well integrated fruit and a touch of salinity that adds complexity. The finish lingers quite long and begs you to take another sip. I can’t sing the praises of this wine enough.
*2017 Vire Clesse
$33.99btl/$407.88 per case
(Jim Sirna 95)
Here the aromatics are a bit richer and rounder. The common thread of perfect acidity is well balanced again here. Poised and elegant, there is just a little more of everything here. The finish is focused, clean and pure. Another triumph from Dominique Lafon.