Normally when someone brings me Burgundy to taste, I end up telling them more about the producer and wines then they knew when they came in! But on Tuesday I learned you can teach an old dog new tricks. I was brought the wines from Chablis Domaine Jean Dauvissat Pere et Fils. Now yes I knew of him, but his wines almost never make it to the states. They even brought me the Rare “L’Homme Mort” which is a tiny 1er Cru vineyard located within 1er Cru Fourchaume! Those who know me can agree I am usually not short on words, but these wines were INCREDIBLE! Precise, complex and stunning with a finish that seemed to go on & on.
There is such little wine available I am offering mixed cases only of either 6 or 12 bottles. Some of the wines arrive tomorrow and a little more next week. There were only 6btls of L’Homme Mort available so if you are one of the first people to buy the mixed cases, you can also purchase a bottle of this rare gem. I have not been this enthusiastic about a producer since I first got into the wine business. They are that good. Don’t wait too long to order these extraordinary wines.
There’s a new kid on the block. And it’s pretty exciting news for Chablis lovers. Fabien Dauvissat, son of Jean (no, not that Jean Dauvissat) has made some radical changes in his father’s considerable Chablis domain.
His father was first and foremost a grape farmer. On nearly 53 acres and 53 different parcels ranging from Petit Chablis to Premier Cru over seven different communes, he produced quality grapes for a big negociant house.
But Fabien has different ideas. He is one of a generation that sees the value in producing not just good Chablis, but great Chablis. So he has taken the domain organic, using only copper and sulfur, no weed killers, no chemical fertilizers and no systemics.
Chardonnay is famous for rampant yields, and so the primary job of the vigneron here is to keep those yields at a level that lets the grapes ripen and sugars concentrate. They only viable way to do this is to prune the vine during the winter so that it will only produce a certain number of grape bunches. Sounds easy, but a lot can happen between the winter pruning and the harvest the following autumn. Shoot for 60 hl/ha, and you might get 40.
The best producers will tell you that quality is all about taking risks. And Fabien is fully aware of the gamble. But in the process, by reducing the volume of wine produced on the domain in his father’s days to the levels he targets now, he has made himself a considerable reputation for a winemaker barely into his 30s.
*Jean Dauvissat Mixed Case
$475.88 per case of 12btls
includes 4btls each of the below listed wines
$237.94 per case of 6btls
includes 2btls each of the below listed wines
(Buy either case and you can purchase a bottle of Homme Mort
*2016 Chablis “Cuvee Claire”
This Chablis went through the malolactic fermentation and was aged on its lees for 12 months. Intense nose with fresh citrus aromas and notes of pear and silex. Crisp and medium bodied with a creamy texture and great length. An impressive Chablis.
*2015 Chablis Cote de Lechet 1er Cru
A classic Cote de Lechet, about as mineral as Chablis can be. This premier cru Cote de Lechet is a model of Left Bank precision, razor sharp, with juicy, mouth-watering acidity. A characteristic floral attack and gun-flint smokiness fill the mid-palate, and the finish is bright berry fruit and long, long minerality.
*2016 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru
This Chablis 1er Cru ‘Vaillons’ is remarkable for its limpidity; it catches light and reflects it like a jewel. Vigorous and full, this is a big wine with fat decadent spicy fruit and deep lingering minerality. Balanced and precise from the attack, through the mid-palate to the long finish, this is a very well-made wine.
*2016 Chablis L’Homme Mort 1er Cru
This is Grand Cru quality made from very old vines. It is very precise with gunflint, smoke and granite bouquet and perfectly balanced acidity. In the mouth it is fresh and taut with lemon and orange zest leading the way. The finish is long, complex and compelling. GRAND VIN!